Hi, my name is Kat. I have worked in the front and back house of many restaurants, and I have also seen the game from the perspective of an owner. Although many people like to embrace complicated safety procedures, I believe you can accomplish just as much with smaller supplies and procedures. If you are ready to strip down your safety procedures and figure out easier, more effective ways to keep your staff safe, please explore this blog. It discusses everything from finding the perfect non-slip mats to buying the best oven mats or hot towels. It also looks at specific supplies you can get to reduce your liability in certain areas. Thanks for reading!
The most vital part of any bandsaw is the blade. Of course, some people change the blade when the problem actually has to do with the table, the power supply, the tension or a number of other common issues with bandsaws. However, most bandsaw issues have to do with the blade. You can easily tune up and align your bandsaw to cut better, but it will all be for naught if your blade is bent, dull, or improperly installed. There is nothing like using a band saw with a new, properly installed blade. It will feel like you have a new machine and your cuts will be more accurate then ever.
Blade Drift
One common problem with bandsaws is called blade drift. If you look straight on at your blade, while the machine is running, you might notice that the blade does not come down in a straight line and it looks almost wavy. In some cases, blade drift does not affect the operation of the machine. You can still make accurate cuts with a minor drift. However, if the drift becomes severe, it can be very dangerous, making it impossible to get your desired cuts. Blade drift can even be caused by simply having a dull blade on the saw or failing to adjust the tension.
Changing Your Blade
First, make sure you buy the right type of blade. Most bandsaws make the best cuts when they have a blade with 3 teeth per inch (or tpi). First, unplug your saw before you start to work on it. Then, loosen the blade guides and thrust bearings with an Allen wrench. Raise the guides up to the highest position possible. Do this for both sets of guides. No you simply detach the two sides of the table and loosen tension crank at the top of the saw. At this point you can basically pull the old blade off of the saw.
To install the new blade, you simply need to repeat the steps in reverse order. Put the blade in place, tighten the tension crank at the top, screw on the blade guides, raise them, and reattach the table. This is basically all you have to do to change your blade. Run it, and do a few practice cuts. If you still notice drift, you might need to have in machinist do a more technical repair or alignment. However, most people find that simply changing the blade solves all of their band saw tire problems.
Share19 March 2015